“UNCLE, 三杯kopi gu you”
In September 2022, I had the opportunity to shadow Mr Shi Ting Chow, the son of the owner of coffee shop Heap Seng Leong, nestled below an HDB block along North Bridge Road. This photo essay was shot over the course of one afternoon, providing a glimpse into Singapore in its early days of independence.
From the outside, there is nothing fancy or special about Heap Seng Leong - in fact, it appears slightly worn down and decrepit. Between the red plastic chairs, cracked tiles on the floor or the peeling paint about to drop from the ceiling, it is the type of place you could easily walk past without a second thought. But it is exactly this unassuming appearance, underneath an old HDB block in the outskirts of the city centre, which gives this kopitiam its quaint charm.
Taking those first steps in, it feels like you’ve been transported back to the 1970s. Or at least as a 22 year old, what I envision the ‘70s to be. From containers with mama shop snacks to the old photos on the wall, every glance around the room reveals a new trinket or detail, each acting as a reminder of the coffee shop’s age. Even the air has a slightly different quality to it - the mix of butter and charcoal lingers in the air, providing a certain stillness rarely found throughout the city. If nostalgia had a smell, I would wager that it would smell like Heap Seng Leong.
One of the must tries at Heap Seng Leong is the kopi gu you (butter coffee). Sounds strange, but trust me it’s good. I’ve never been a huge coffee person, and I honestly tried it out of courtesy to my friend Jo who introduced me to Heap Seng Leong. Boy am I glad that I did. The butter elevates the coffee, giving it a silky smooth taste while taking the edge off the otherwise rich black coffee. The kopi gu you pairs well with the other house speciality - kaya toast. Slowly grilled over a charcoal fire, the two slices of bread house a generous spread of Hainanese kaya and a cold slab of butter. While kaya toast can sometimes feel heavy and dense, each slice is light and fluffy, and makes for a delightful breakfast or afternoon snack.
Some may say that it’s “just” a cup of coffee, or that you can find this kaya-kopi combination in hundreds of kopitiams, food courts and malls throughout the country. But having watched the process myself, I can vouch that every cup of kopi and every kaya toast is a labour of love, and frankly from the taste, it shows.
In a city constantly trying to keep up with the times by reinventing itself, Heap Seng Leong offers a respite from the gentrified image that Singapore tries so hard to maintain. While the government has spent millions trying to remind everyone of the “good ol’ days” and to turn feelings of nostalgia into something tangible, Mr Shi and his father are simply going about their daily lives lives, serving kopi, kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs to their loyal customers. Heap Seng Leong is not trying to be cool or retro, or anything more than what it is: a neighbourhood kopitiam. But it’s also the kind of place where one can sit for hours at end, drinking coffee and gossiping with friends. In fact, no matter who you are or where you’re coming from, once you step onto those red tiles, you almost feel compelled to slow down, to take a seat and just let life pass you by. Heap Seng Leong may be the kind of place you could easily walk past, but once you step in, it’s also a place you’ll not want to leave.
Maybe I’m making an unnecessarily big deal about a coffee shop, but I think there is something beautiful, even important, in celebrating the ordinary.