Madeira 2: The Final Images
It’s been about 6-7 weeks since I got back from Madeira, and three since I wrote the first blog about Madeira. To anyone who read that post, it was very clear that at the time, I was feeling really down about my photography. I think that since then, I’ve definitely gained some inspiration and spark, and am more optimistic about my photography than I was a few weeks ago. I still think it is important to keep that post up as it acts as a reminder to me (and everyone) that it’s okay to feel uninspired and demotivated, and that your energy levels and passion may ebb and flow. I have an entire life of photography ahead of me, and so I think it’s important to accept that I don’t need to see, shoot and accomplish everything right now, and that it is okay to take breaks and walk away for a while.
I’ve deliberately waited a couple of weeks to publish this blog because I wanted focus on judging the photos by their own merits, rather than getting caught up with all the emotions of the trip. It’s really easy to get be distracted by how the experiences made you feel, and so I think that taking that extra bit of time to live with your photos is really helpful. As time has gone on, I’ve begun to like and appreciate my set of photos from Madeira more than I realised - yes if the conditions were different, I might have produced different (or better) photos, but it would have meant that I wouldn’t have the photos that I did end up taking. Something I am working to accept and internalise is that there is no such thing as “right or wrong” conditions for photography, that everything from grey skies to a perfect sunset can work for something, and that there is always some opportunity out there. Of course one can always hope for particular conditions, but if they don’t pan out (as they often don’t), it’s important to adapt rather than just sulk. Obviously not every shoot will yield a portfolio image, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth shooting.
With everything which happened during and after the trip, I really want to put the photography at the forefront of this body of work. So rather than writing my usual narrative about the trip, I’ll let the photos do the talking for me.
Sunset at Ponta Do Sol. This was the one man-made structure that I had on my shooting bucket list in Madeira, and I would probably rate this as my strongest image out of the lot. I really like the dynamism of the water and the waves, and how the yellow pier juxtaposes with the purple hues of the late-sunset/early blue hour. I think in the past I would likely have tried to really smooth out the water with a 15-30s exposure, and while that might have turned out alright, I don’t think it would have done justice to the scene.
TOP: The sea stacks of Ribeira da Janela taken from Porto Moniz. MIDDLE: Pockets of light breaking through the stormy clouds from Ponta do Pargo, the Western tip of Madeira. BOTTOM: Layers of mountains shoot along Vereda do Areeiro. If I had to summarise Madeira in one set of images, I would select these three. The steep cliffs rising straight out of the water, the dramatic weather and the mountainous terrain - I think that it encapsulates the ruggedness of Madeira.
Sunrise from Ribeira da Janela. I spent a lot of time trying to look for the perfect foreground for the rocks (while also trying not to slip over and break something), and so by the time I found a set of rocks I was satisfied with, the best of the light had already gone.
Sunrise over Miradouro de São Lourenço. This was taken on my last full day of the trip - I actually did this hike on my very first morning in Madeira, but somehow completely missed the viewpoint the first time round. I think this image is my epitome of a “solid” image - it’s technically well composed and exposed, it shows a dramatic scene in decent enough light conditions, but I wonder whether it is truly an image which would stand out in my portfolio, especially compared to other images of a similar mould. I guess time will tell.
Fanal Forest. Ah yes. Fanal Forest. The source of so much frustration over the trip. This shot was from my first visit there - while I would have definitely loved misty conditions, trying to come up with an image with that ethereal and mystic feel was a really fun challenge. If I’m ever back in Madeira though, 100% I will be going back to Fanal Forest.
25 Fontes Falls. This was probably the one location in Madeira which I did not have a particularly pleasant experience in. “Coincidentally”, it was also the hike which is most easily accessible, and therefore the most crowded. With the hordes of people walking around the waterfall, I quickly abandoned any hope of a wide-angle long exposure, and instead switched over to my telephoto lens. I really do like what came of it though - I like the abstract feel of the water and the leaves.
Fanal Forest. On my fourth (and final) attempt at getting misty conditions in Fanal Forest, I was pretty close to calling it quits and going back to bed (after another 1 hour drive back to my hostel). In the distance I saw these cows, and sort of reluctantly I decided that I should just go and check it out. I didn’t manage to get misty trees, but I guess backlit cows is some consolation… right?
LEFT AND RIGHT: Vereda do Areeiro. This was one of the other locations which I was most frustrated with at the time. It seemed like we got sun and fog in all the wrong times and places. Because I was hiking with a group of people, I wasn’t able to slow down and wait for the perfect conditions for a particular scene, so a lot of the photography was quite snap and go, which I didn’t love. Even still, I think this hike was one of the greatest hikes of my life, and can understand why it is rated as one of the best day hikes in the world.
To address one question which I have received, which is “is Madeira worth going to?”, my answer is yes. Both for photography and an overall travel destination, I think Madeira is absolutely worth adding to your bucket list. I think that photographically, Madeira has the potential to match the likes of Iceland, the Faroes Islands and the Fjords of Norway in that tier of iconic landscape destinations in Europe. The sheer variety of the landscapes is staggering, and the ease of access makes it even better - I’m sure I could be wrong, I doubt there are many places in Europe that you can shoot sunrise by the beach, spend the day in the forest, and then catch sunset in the mountains. Combined with much more mild (if similarly unpredictable) weather conditions, and Madeira becomes a very appealing photography location. Moreover, I think that excluding Fanal Forest and Pico Do Arieiro/Ruivo, most of Madeira is under-photographed, and there are a lot of potential compositions and locations still undiscovered.
As an overall travel destination, I would also rate it very highly, but with some caveats. I think that if you’re looking for a “relaxing” holiday where you just lie on the beach and walk around small/quaint villages, you are probably better off in Mainland Portugal or another part of Europe. In fact, I think there are only a couple of sandy beaches on the entire island. Funchal, the capital of Madeira, is a charming city, but I don’t think it’s anything to write home about, especially compared to other cities in Portugal or the rest of Europe. Instead, if you are looking for somewhere to be more active, to go hiking or canyoning or on an ATV adventure, then look no further than Madeira. The peak to peak hike from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo and back was legitimately the best hike of my life, and I’m sure if I was not so focused on my the photography, I would have absolutely loved some of the other activities. The food is simple but good, and with lovely and nearly perpetually sunny weather in the Southern coast of the island, Madeira makes for a great place to have a crazy day of adventuring, before kicking back and enjoying life after.
I think that one of the best things about Madeira is that beyond the most popular or easiest walks, you can have the trail/nature nearly to yourself, especially if you are willing to get up early or go during the non-peak season. Speaking for myself, I don’t think I saw another Chinese/East Asian tourist in my entire time there. So as much as I enjoyed my time in Madeira and as much as I would recommend it to other people, I kind of wish that it remains (relatively) uncrowded, and that the next time I am back, that I can enjoy both the craziness and serenity of being in the Madeiran landscapes alone once again.
